The symbol for the Chinese god of longevity, Shoulau, is a walking stick topped by a mushroom ornament. Unfortunately this did not help the Roman emperor Claudius who died after eating poisonous ones. No doubt because of their often disastrous effects, mushrooms have gathered quite a following of folklore and superstition. In Egypt only Pharaohs were allowed to eat them as they were thought to have had magical powers. In France, more sensibly, where many mushroom varieties grow wild, amateur pickers are advised to take their finds for identification to the local chemist who is qualified to assess their safety. Mushrooms are good sources of fibre, potassium, protein and iron and are excellent for vegetarians as they contain vitamin B12. In Australia we have several main varieties of mushroom available in vegetable markets:

- cultivated mushrooms available as button, with closed caps, ideal for slicing into sauces and salads; cups, slightly fuller and opening a little, great for casseroles; and flat, quite open and suitable for stuffing, barbecues and sauteeing

- oyster, flat greyish and delicate to be added to stirfries and warm salads. There is also now a pinkish variety, very pretty to add to shellfish.

- Swiss brown and chestnut, a firm meaty mushroom, excellent for vegetarian or any dish requiring a rich flavour

- shiitake, the basic Chinese mushroom, called by the Chinese 'the elixir of life', sold dried mostly in Asian stores, but sometimes available fresh. The dried ones should be soaked for up to 30 minutes in hot water and the tough inedible stem discarded before the cap is sliced and added to Chinese dishes. The soaking water can be used to add flavour as well

- enoki, those elegant long-stemmed white Japanese mushrooms with a tiny cap, very rare but fantastic to add to special dishes

Related as fungi, but imported, are ceps, chanterelles, truffles and morels. These incredibly expensive morsels add a touch of gold to a dish. Straw mushrooms used in Chinese cookery are usually available tinned and cloud ear fungus is generally dried and sold in packets, needing only a short soaking to reconstitute it. Fresh mushrooms should always be stored refrigerated in brown paper bags and do not need washing or peeling before use. Simply wipe them with a teatowel or paper towel.

* Diet Data: Pantothenic acid, niacin, riboflavin, phosphorus, folate, 90kJ per 100g.

* Shopping Tips: Available all year.

* Storage: Refrigerate, unwashed in brown paper bag up to a week.