South-east Wales: contrasts in colour, flavour - and history

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Where do you find waterside farms, rugged cliffs, fluffy sheep - and top cuisine?

For a clue, check out the round sign on the lower right-hand corner (above).

Lesson One: the Welsh are adamant about retrieving and honouring their heritage. Throughout the country, all notices begin with a message in Welsh which is (usually, but not always!) followed by the English alternative.

And rightly so.

These coasts have been secured for many years by lighthouses like this one at Nash Point.

Sheep are all-important too. Those tufts of wool caught on barbed-wire fences are soft and delicate...

...BUT - be warned. If visiting farming country, leave your dogs at home!

This cosy cafe at the entrance to the lighthouse property, is an ideal place to relax and oversee the lovely Bristol Channel.

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On our Welsh holiday...

...this becomes our corner of Cardiff - for a fortnight, anyway

The most wonderful experience when travelling to other countries, is to immerse yourself (even if only very briefly) in local activities. The scary bit is booking ahead, then crossing fingers, hoping that we have made a sensible choice.

Our choice of a two-bedroom upstairs flat in Cardiff, the capital of Wales, turned out to be ideal, especially as it overlooked the exceptionally well-groomed Pontcanna Fields.

An easy half-hour walk through parklands, then crossing the River Taff, brought us to Cardiff's city centre.

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Hanging with the locals

Day One, after a non-stop flight from Australia the day before, there was only one thing we were craving. That, and spring sunshine. We managed to have both, but our best discovery was learning that Welsh coffee does not disappoint!

Next day, just a few blocks along we discover Brod, adding a Danish accent to local cuisines.

There are several Brod cafes and bakeries in Cardiff, but this was the closest for us...

...so, naturally, we made a couple of visits.

The part of Cardiff called Pontcanna, where we stayed, is ideal for visitors. It is walking distance from the city centre, yet has its own bright upmarket vibe that flows on to fine drinking and dining - and, of course, entertainment.

Not everything happens in the evenings, though. Breakfasts and brunches are in great demand for hungry people like us...

...so we just needed to make sure for ourselves that they were as good as we'd been told.

ANSWER?  Even better. than expected.

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Stepping back in time - the village of St Fagans 

Just a 15-minute drive by car from central Cardiff, or Caerdydd, as it is spelt in Welsh...

...we became immersed in centuries of local history, exploring how people in Wales have lived and worked and spent their leisure through the ages.

Now one of Europe's leading open-air museums, St Fagans has become so popular, that those planning to visit are advised to book-ahead at this site.

There is so much to see and do on this property, that it is worth making an entire day's visit to fully enjoy it all.

What's more St Fagans is sensitive to the needs of elderly and disabled visitors, allowing everyone to safely enjoy this fascinating place.

The museum stands in the grounds of St Fagans Castle, a late 16th century manor house, which was donated to the people of Wales by the Earl of Plymouth in 1948.

Here you can watch how things are made...such as bread baking, clog-making, corn and woollen mills, and black-smithing. 

Hungry? There's traditional Welsh food from the Gwalia Supply Co, above, or you can relax at a restaurant, or drop-in to the tea room or cafe onsite.

Must do: buy some souvenirs at the gift shop, tool.

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Penarth -  a day at the seaside 

Does this waterfront look familiar?

You might recognise it, as fairly recently a BBC comedy drama was filmed in Penarth, airing in the UK on TV.

Don't expect a sandy welcome, though, at this beach. Like many in the area, you need a thick towel for relaxing on these stony shores.

Of course it is not all about the water. Turn the other way and the waterfront street with its colourful facades and outdoor dining, draws many to this busy esplanade, just a ten-minute drive from the centre of Cardiff.

This is truly the ideal place for relaxation. People-watching is popular as others walk by...

...or take a step back into childhood at the sweet shop...

...and become captivated by the the elegant iron-work on Penarth Pier.

Turn right, and the horizon seems to reach forever, even though in reality, it is only a few kilometres across the Bristol Channel.

At the far end of the pier, the panoramic view is spectacular.

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Welcome to Cardiff  

Having visited some countries several times, we feel OK in promoting other places that are maybe not as well known as others - like St Fagans, and Penarth.

Of course it would simply be bad manners to overlook a country's capital. Especially when the symbol of Wales is such an imposing creature!

Why is the dragon so important in Wales? Find out more HERE...

Let's step back to the building of Cardiff Castle, a combination of a Roman fort, a Norman keep, established in the 11th century, and a nineteenth-century mansion.

This dragon has protected the castle walls for many years.

The red, white and green flag fluttering over the castle's main tower brings a little colour to those grey stone walls.

Throughout Wales, dragons appear.

 The Welsh dragon, known as Y Ddraig Goch (the Red Dragon), is a powerful symbol in Welsh mythology and folklore, representing the nation's history, identity and spirit. It is a prominent feature on the Welsh flag and has been associated with the country for centuries, appearing in legends and historical accounts as a symbol of strength, resilience, and resistance.

While the castle grounds may seem confusing, the sign above, actually makes it very clear.

The battlements surrounding the castle have stood their ground for centuries...

...and, for those interested in animals, the castle wall displays a number of carved creatures.

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Farewell, Cardiff - now we are heading north

Almost directly due north of Cardiff - just over a half-hour's drive we arrive at Merthyr Tydfil.

In English, the name translates as Tydfil's martyrdom. The name refers to Saint Tydfil, a fifth-century Welsh princess who was murdered by pagans and is honoured as a martyr in the town's name. The Welsh word "merthyr" means "martyr" or "martyr's shrine". 

Because we had also stayed here before, this time we stopped just long enough to visit the markets at Abergavenny...

... also check out those wonderful Welsh blankets and, OK, buy some mementos.

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The Welsh Valleys

These 'Valleys' are of particular interest to me as there's a family link here. Nearby, two of my ancestors were married in the small town of Aberdare....

Due to lack of money, many local families chose to move abroad. The one above chose Patagonia - while my great-great-grandparents headed for Australia.

Siloa Congregational Chapel.

The couple were married in their homeland, in this church, later emigrating to the appropriately-named New South Wales, proudly taking their Welsh blood with them, and maybe smiling a little that at least they chose a place name to honour their homeland thi.

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Why the Wye Valley?

(OK, we deviated just a little on this trip, mainly because this is one of our favourite places in the UK)

But it was worth doing this, to see the River Wye which, for many kilometres, welcomes England on one bank, and Wales on the other.

A popular place for canoeists - there is also a boat that can ferry people across the river by using a hand-pulled gadget connected with the wires above.

On the Welsh side, is the delightful Symonds Yat. Previously I have stayed on the English side in the Royal Lodge at Ross-on-Wye.

This time, we relaxed on the other side...

...and watched the ferry despite the rainy weather.

More details about Symonds Yat and the Wye Valley...

On the Welsh side...

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Monmouth almost at the Welsh-English border

If you detect an ancient feel to this town, it is because Monmouth has centuries of stories.

Especially The Kings Head (above) - ah, if only it could speak...

What stories The Punch House could tell, too. 

In Agincourt Square stands the Charles Stewart Rolls Memorial Statue. Henry Royce, a motoring and aviation pioneer, co-founded the Rolls-Royce car manufacturing firm.

No, we didn't just drop across to Cornwall for a crisp pasty -  it's here...in Monmouth!

Monnow is a market town and community in Monmouthshire, Wales. It is situated where the River Monnow joins the River Wye two miles (or three kilometres) from the Wales-English border.

There could not be a better place to say goodbye to Eastern Wales.

There is just enough time to gaze at the Monmouth Millennium Mosaic...

...and consider the many stories to be found in this fascinating border-city. From the first century AD to 400AD, Monmouth was controlled by a Roman garrison. This continued until the Norman invasion, and later by the Breton Lords until 1256.

There is so much to see in this ancient city, including the formerly named Nelson Museum and Local History Centre, now named Monmouth Museum. Finally - wishing we had time to follow the Heritage Trail but ...

...we give in, getting our priorities right with double-shot coffees at the nearby Coffi Lab.

(PS: it's also a dog-friendly venue)

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Just one more farewell to the south-east of Wales...

These spectacular greens...

...those layered rocks ...

......and lighthouses, will forever tempt us to revisit the gentle countryside and ancient history of Wales.

For me, I am even more proud to have at least a few drops of Welsh blood in my veins.

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In 2024, Sally and Gordon Hammond travelled in South-eastern Wales.

Text and photographs - Sally Hammond

Video - Gordon Hammond.