Window on the Cyclades

Three awesome Greek islands ~ Milos, Kimolos, and Santorini

Try to rank these sister islands of the Aegean Sea and you'll find it's an impossibility.

Taking a recent early morning flight from Athens airport, we landed 45 minutes later on Milos. As we walked from the plane to the main building (yes, it's that sort of airport) the welcoming honey-scented sunshine immediately whisked away any travel tension.

'Relaxed', says it mildly - no checks, no masks, suitcases grab-ready, and off we went, a rare 'catch-up' vacation with family, as well as 'work'. Cameras, and a notebook for research at hand, was the plan, but not to be overdone!

~~~

We had come for a first-ever glimpse of the famed Greek Islands - in this case the Cyclades, and had arrived equipped with the usual tourist-portfolio of expectations: skies and sea bluer than anywhere else in the world...

...dazzling white-on-white on white buildings...

...and seafood fresher than anywhere else.

It would take years to adequately explore and enjoy the 200-plus islands of the Aegean Archipelago - however, on our long-awaited holiday (Covid had grabbed three years!) we were determined to see and do (and eat!) as much as we could in the available time!!

(Pic: ©Villa Tania Milos)

Our stay began at Villa Tania Milos, in Pollonia on the far north of Milos. This luxury three-star hotel on a headland looking across to tiny Kimolos Island (see more about that later) was to be our home for several days.

(Pic: ©Villa Tania Milos)

This hotel's breakfasts were the best we enjoyed all trip!

~~~

The Cyclades is a group of islands that encircle (hence the name Cyclades) the island of Delos, not on our list - this time!

However, our son and his wife had been to Milos before, so they began a guided tour at one of their favourite spots, Miramare Milos, five kilometres west of our hotel.

During the day we became used to seeing tiny settlements like these nestled behind rocky outcrops. Always, it seems there was a blue-trimmed church, and fishing boats. The locals on Milos are always fishing - and fishing tours can often be organised for visitors.

If you travel to these islands, make sure to enter one of the local churches. The breath-takingly rich decoration and artistic talent is amazing, with a history that can be traced back centuries.

The freshness and simplicity of food on Greek tables, we were to discover, was a point of honour. Here our lunchtime tomato salad came topped with fresh soft cheese, to be eaten with dakos a tasty barley-flour bread that is dried right through after baking.

Every cove hides yet more fishing boats, and sheltered water for swimming or simply lazing.

Near Plaka we spent time exploring the waterfront of the colourful fishing village of Klima.

These places reminded us that Greek islands are more than just blue and white!

And 'waterfront' is exactly what these are...

...with tides lapping the footpath and doorsteps.

High above the cove is Plaka, seemingly far away, yet surprising close - just three kilometres of tightly twisting curves inland.

~~~

While in Plaka, you must try watermelon pie (yes, really)

We were tipped off that this was a must-try and the name itself made us curious. Apparently it is only made here, in a small cafe. Its official name in Greek is karpouzopita and it was surprisingly delicious.

Get ready to walk and walk and climb endless stairs as Plaka, Milos's main town, is also carless.

Similar to many Greek villages, it was built like a maze of alleys to confuse pirates!

This restaurant has one of the best views and, if it is possible, even better food. Come at sunset, as we did, to enjoy it even more.

The food alone is sensational - we shared dishes of tzatziki, garlic tagliatelli, grilled cheese with lemon marmalade, and perfectly fried calamari (above) served with rosemary and thyme!

However good this food is, though, you must lift your eyes occasionally to drink in the sight of the brilliant blue Aegean seemingly just below your table.

+++

Bring your hat and sunglasses - and sunscreen!

Five kilometres away on the eastern side of Milos, come to Sarakiniko beach, with its blindingly white volcanic cliffs.

Watch daring dives on the video (below)....

~~~

Now see the next two islands....

A day-trip to Kimolos

From the wharf at Pollonia on Milos, we travel by car-ferry to Kimolos on the Osia Methodia. From our hotel in we could see Kimolos, seemingly very close, yet it took about an hour to reach there.

~~~

Pack your walking shoes...

The capital of Kimolos is Horio, (or Chorio) meaning, simply, 'village of Kimolos'. The town is built on a high hill overlooking Psathi, the harbour and arrival point for visitors to the island.

Again the buildings in the midday sun are blindingly white...

...the pedestrians-only laneways would keep any pirates at bay...

...and the plethora of alleyway dining spots made it almost impossible to choose.

This is town is an art-lover's delight, with handmade souvenirs and paintings. Take time to appreciate them and you will soon find that, in no time, you have dealt with all your souvenirs - as well as gifts for those at home!

Instead we drove north to Prassa for a magnificent lunch, waterside at Prasonisi Restaurant.

Endless dishes appeared: fava beans, cod croquettes, a carrot and orange salad (above) smoked eggplant - and much more. The best was the final touch when the owners brought us each a small glass of homemade melon liqueur!

As with many things in life, our few hours on tiny Kimolos seemed far too short, but it was better than the alternative: missing out on seeing it at all!

~~~

Back on Milos ...

... that evening we farewelled our visit to these two islands with dinner at De Milos Restaurant in Pollonia.

It seemed that we had left the best until last.

Specialising in Modern Greek Gastronomy, this restaurant served us with dishes like the spicy cheese spread (above)...

... moussaka croquettes (above), lamb kleftifo with gruyere cream, and a fascinating black chicken dish, providing the ideal memory of Milos to linger on our palates.

Of course, it would have been wonderful to stay longer, but we had an early call in the morning. Sadly, this was our last night on Milos.

Tomorrow, Santorini and its mysteries filled our itinerary!

Sunny Santorini - island bliss

You could be forgiven for thinking that the town of Oia (pronounced 'wee-ah') is the capital of the island of Santorini. In fact Thera, the ancient city dating from prehistoric times, at the northernmost tip has that privilege.

And while Oia was the town in which we spent most of our time while on the island, occasionally we still lapsed into forgetfully referring to it as 'Santorini'.

Perhaps that's because it is such a massively popular tourist drawcard. The inevitable flipside of this is that it could become a drawback for those who don't like crowds. Best idea is to visit during the shoulder seasons of the year, when there might be fewer people in town.

With stunning blue-satin views like this, it would be difficult to downplay Santorini - or to keep people away.

Most cafes and restaurants in Oia are perched high above those mesmerising views, but even inside the white-washed buildings, the 'views on your plate' will be just as fascinating - like this salad with beetroot and cheese nestling inside toasted angel-hair pasta...

...or these deep-fried balls - a mouthful of gruyere anointed with sesame seeds and honey - at Lotza Santorini restaurant, one of the highest points with an (understandably) spectacular view!

There is so much to see and discover in this one town.

Of course there are plenty of booths and pathside stands selling postcards and 'touristabilia', but look closely and you will find shops selling high-quality craft, art-photographs, stylish clothes, local produce and much more.

Walk slowly.

That's not difficult, as there is a constant crowd packing the vehicle-free main thoroughfare. Doing so, though, means you'll discover some truly beautiful things to bring home or give as gifts.

The Greek flag is deep blue and white, and these colours are everywhere you care to look, including the sea.

You have been warned that the narrow cobbled 'street' can get very busy, but look closely and you will see a couple of other 'pedestrians'. If you were there, you would also hear the bells on these donkeys who are actually on the job.

Because of the terrain, every bit of baggage needs to be trundled, or carried, to a visitor's hotel or B&B - and, after check-out, back to the main road far above. Donkeys have been elected to do this heavy task because of their strength - and perhaps their passive personalities! At other times, hotel porters will transfer bags for visitors.

The combination of white facades and the brilliant summer sun make these islands dazzlingly beautiful,

It is doubtful if anyone has come up with the total number of churches in Greece, but they seem to be everywhere, ranging from large and imposing, like this one in Oia, to personal family chapels, attached to private homes.

There are so many 'moods' of Oia. At first glance it seems that finally this town - with homes virtually carved from the rocky hillside - is wrapping up the day, ready for a relaxed evening. Take another look. The evening crowds are just arriving!!

~~~

Sailing in a caldera!

While the islands are impressive, the waters surrounding them are even more sensational.

We were thrilled that our son and his wife had generously organised a five-hour private cruise (see above) for us all in the caldera of Santorini.

Although designated as a Decade Volcano, the last eruption in the caldera was in 1950.

Santorini's caldera is the second largest in the world. Some experts think that the ancient civilisation of Atlantis might have been destroyed by the Minoan eruption in the 17th century BC. Who knows, any remains would lie many fathoms below us!

In some parts, the sides of the caldera reach 300 metres, and the deep colours of the rocks are evidence of the surrounding island's ancient geological history.

Our day, though, was trouble-free, relaxing on the yacht, watching the passing water traffic of groups learning new skills...

...sitting back, discussing the passing vessels...

...and eating a delicious meal of traditional dishes prepared onboard by the crew. Pure bliss!

Santorini's towns were initially built for safety from invasion, high on the cliffs. Today they are spread peacefully, resembling icing on a cake.

Obviously many of the tourists we had encountered in Oia, come from the daily cruise ships such as this one, above.

At last, after a decadently lazy day, we turn for home - passing this isolated clifftop church, also wearing the colours of both the sea and the Greek flag.

A magical day on waters that hold many secrets.

~~~

Sunset on Santorini's Oia is magical

At the close of each day, the rosy rays of the setting sun transform Oia's buildings, painting them apricot and gold. Tourists are quick to learn to find a spot to watch the glorious daily kaleidoscope of colours.