As a child the only asparagus I knew came from a tin. At CWA functions someone always brought a platter of savoury rolls which we all thought was very elegant, and so of course they were scoffed down very quickly. Each roll was a single spear of asparagus wrapped in a slice of white bread (crusts removed, naturally) then secured with a toothpick.
Asparagus is synonymous with spring. Its name probably comes from its feathery leaves which were called 'sparrow-grass'. The stalks contain sulphur, so if you don't want to ruin the flavour of the wine you are drinking, add grated cheese when you serve it. In season from October to February, there is hardly anything better than freshly picked asparagus from the garden. The next best thing is fresh asparagus from a growers’ market neither of which resemble the flaccid canned variety. The quickest way to cook asparagus is to pop a bunch in a tumbler half filled with water, cover with a plastic sandwich bag and microwave for about 45 seconds on High.
ASPARAGUS GRATIN
30g butter salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 1/4 cup boiling water 2 egg yolks 1/4 cup drained capers l bunch fresh asparagus, steamed lightly 6 hardboiled eggs, shelled and halved grated parmesan cheese dry breadcrumbs
Melt butter in a bowl over hot water. Add salt, pepper and boiling water then egg yolks, stirring until thickened, then add capers. Arrange asparagus and eggs in a gratin dish, pour sauce over and top with cheese and crumbs. Brown lightly under a moderate grill. Serves 4 as an entree.
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