City at the End of the World

  • Tierra del Fuego, Argentina
  • Tierra del Fuego, Argentina
  • Tierra del Fuego, Argentina
  • Tierra del Fuego, Argentina
  • Tierra del Fuego, Argentina
  • Tierra del Fuego, Argentina
  • Tierra del Fuego, Argentina
  • Tierra del Fuego, Argentina
  • Tierra del Fuego, Argentina
  • Tierra del Fuego, Argentina
  • Tierra del Fuego, Argentina
  • Tierra del Fuego, Argentina
  • Tierra del Fuego, Argentina
  • Tierra del Fuego, Argentina
Click to view enlargements

by Sally Hammond


The road marker near the base of Mount Olivia reads 3030. That's kilometres from Buenos Aires, as every distance in Argentina is measured.

We're crossing the Andes, which sounds adventurous, but here in Tierra del Fuego – where Argentina dips a rocky toe into the icy southern waters of the  Atlantic on one side and the Pacific Ocean on the other – it's as simple as hopping on a tour bus.

At the Garibaldi Pass, we dutifully alight and huddle in the chill winds at the lookout overlooking lakes and more snow-tipped mountains - the Andes, of course - some of us posing by the sign proclaiming Tierra del Fuego.

Tierra del Fuego. The name translates as 'land of fire', and certainly the snowy, conical peaks we can see across the border in Chile, across Lake Fagnano, look volcanic, but Rosa, our tour guide, swings her long dark hair and puts us right.

"It was the smoke," she tells us, "from the fires of the people. Everywhere, there were fires. That's what the explorers saw."

A nation of cooks? Hardly! These fires in every home - even on their boats - were primarily in order to melt fat from the seal lions the people had caught. It was then rubbed onto their bodies, all over them, to keep them warm in the freezing climate.

Rosa hands around a book with a photograph of smiling locals, buck naked and greased up, as they lived a century or so ago. Some skinned animals and fashioned warm fur garments, but others simply preferred to use fat.

Today's Fuegians keep warm in a more accepted way. Shops in the long, long main street of Ushuaia (population around 50,000 except when a massive cruise ship swells the town's numbers) are cosy with fleece jackets, down vests, and woollen wear for every part of you. There are ponchos, shawls, gloves and caps - and leather goods in abundance as Patagonia, with its lambs wool and leather, is just a ferry ride away across the Magellan Strait, on the north of this wedge-shaped island.

In 1520, Ferdinand Magellan, that savvy Portuguese explorer, was amazed when he located a connection between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. Sir Francis Drake, a few years later tried to do the same thing, but was blown off course, and that much rougher southern route, the Drake Passage, named for him, was actually discovered by others.

The British wanted to stake a claim to the southern oceans, and grabbed the chance with this treacherous stretch of chilly waters, punctuated by the notorious Cape Horn, a rocky islet (not a cape at all) responsible for putting a fullstop to many a journey. Cross this, and a thousand kilometres later you could land on Antarctica.

Although Ushuaia sounds like a sneeze, its name actually means simply 'bay penetrating west'. A glance at a map shows the Beagle Channel doing just that, with the deep water port of Ushuaia, founded in 1884, cosily situated at the far end of a narrow tongue of water flanked by Argentinian land on one side and Chile on the other.

The world's southernmost city has the look of a frontier town. The architecture is eclectic, with buildings in progress, some half finished, and many roads pockmarked, obviously damaged by the severe weather. The warmer season, roughly from November to March, seems hardly long enough to catch up on all the jobs which accumulate during those colder months when, in the depth of winter, there are only seven hours of daylight each day.

Yet tourism has sparked new life into the place. At the port at the bottom of the hill, cruise ships berth, and others depart for Antarctica. Penguins abound in the shops. Not the real ones of course, but sculpted and painted ones, drawn on mugs, laminated onto keyrings, or embroidered on thick sweaters. There are mate mugs from which you can sip the astringent tea that Argentinians love, and jewellery fashioned from the local pink rhodocrosite rock.

The town has plenty of places to relax too. Coffee lounges such as Tante Nina's and Tante Sara's offer warm havens in which to enjoy freshly baked pastries and pizzas, and slurp down a reviving coffee or hot chocolate

Or there is Restaurant Kaupe - hidden away up a side street.

"This is the best food you will have anywhere," we were enthusiastically advised by one of the staff on our ship. We went, and the food was amazing, but the view over the sparkling town and bay stole the show.

Likewise the accommodation ranges the whole gamut, from spartan two star hotels and guest houses to exclusive places such a Las Hayas Resort. The latter, located high above the town, and with a forever view across the port and down the Beagle Channel, has the ambience of an elegant alpine hunting lodge.

But for those who wish to see more, and do more, Canal Tours offers 4WD treks into the hinterland. There is skiing and snow sports in winter, fishing, cycling, hiking, kayaking and sailing, even simple sled rides pulled by huskies, bred specifically for the purpose.

A narrow gauge train trip 'to the end of the world' leaves from near Ushuaia chugging along a loop through fir forests. In town, there is the Museum of the End of the World, a Maritime Museum and a wealth of day tours available from the port to take visitors out through the islands of the archipelago.

Ushuaia - it's a tongue twister of a name, but it feels good to say it. Especially when you have actually been to the ends of the earth to see it.



GETTING THERE: Aerolineas Argentinas (02 9234 9000 flies to Buenos Aires from Sydney, on Thursday and Sunday with an additional Tuesday flight in peak season (December to February). There are daily flights from Buenos Aires to Ushuaia on either Aerolineas Argentinas or Austral Aircraft.


ACCOMMODATION: Las Hayas Resort (a member of Leading Hotels of the World), This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it


EATING OUT: Restaurant Kaupe, Roca 470, Ushuaia,


CLIMATE: Average winter temperature is -2C; summer maximum up to 30C.


THINGS TO DO: Visit the Museum at the End of the World or take the Railway to the End of the World (details at the local Tourist Information Centre in the town). Take a day tour on the Beagle Channel, or go trekking, horse riding, mountain bike riding, fishing or skiing 15km out of town on Krund Hill.


TOURS: Canal Tours, This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it


MORE INFORMATION: Contact your travel agent or log on to





© All material is copyright and may not be reprinted or reused in any way without permission.


Add comment

Security code




Www.Foodandtravel.Com.Au - Australia

Best Food Travel Website 2021 has been awarded

Best Antipodean Culinary Travel Expert, 2019

by the prestigious UK-based magazine...



It's worth taking a driving trip through country South Australia...

...winelands, long views, great seafood and more.

Find it HERE>>>



Where has WA's Great Southern and all the (wild)flowers gone?

You'll find them now permanently HERE...



If you are wondering where the GREAT IDEAS for Virtual Travel have gone to....

...they are HERE>>>



Missed seeing Esperance Western Australia ~ and Skylab?

HERE it is....



Georgia offers another world outside the capital...

Find out about it HERE>>>



World city options - take note....

...for when you travel again!




...from all around the world

Tune in and hear her talks on     

Radio 2GB 873AM....




Jigsaws and fishy things...

...Nova Scotia has this and so much more.



History and beauty with a dash of fun...

...and that's just the beginning of Armenia!



Zany Zadar & Croatia's north

Crazy and beautiful, a place everyone should visit.




Lovely Lisbon ~ and beyond. Sardines and secrets!

Find out much more here.... 



Where did cool Colombo go?

It's here!



Two virtual visits to Ontario





Where is Tbilisi? 

Once you discover its beauty and history, you will be making plans to visit as soon as you can.

Read more....



Madrid the marvelous - so much to see in Spain's capital.

See it all here....



If you missed reading about Thailand's organic produce....

Here is the new link....



Colour comes to Green Summer

See what is happening in Australia's northernmost city this summer....



Here's something fun to check out!

The world's most popular surnames .... country



~ Northern Spain ~

mountains and miracles - and much more!

After this journey, many people will never see the world the same way again.


Find out why....



Visit the beautiful heart of


Gondolas, cathedrals, cakes and a palace thrown in for good measure.

See for yourself!



And how about these vineyards in Georgia?

See other gardens in strange locations here....



Now this IS unusual! The Golden Bridge near Da Nang in Vietnam

(Photo: psyajh1004)

See  more on this video....



Australia, the land of long straight roads.

Cross the country with us and see some more of them...



Make your own food and travel videos? YES YOU CAN!

Gordon Hammond gives some insider tips.....



Travelling to Sydney? The northern beaches are spectacular.

See what we mean...



For an exotic travel experience, go glamping in the desert.

Where do you think this is?



Hungary has something for every traveller.

Especially those who love good food...